Anycubic Predator Review Part II: Prints, Changes, Pro's, Con's & Final Thoughts

Anycubic Predator Review Part II: Prints, Changes, Pro's, Con's & Final Thoughts

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This is part 2 of the Anycubic Predator video. This video covers several prints, different speeds and settings, some minor upgrades I’ve done, and some more I plan on doing. Also my final thoughts and opinions on this printer.

Thanks to Anycubic for providing me with this printer for review

And a special thanks to for providing all of the filament used in parts 1 & 2

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hey guys I am back this is part 2 of my predator by any Kubik review this is going to be some prints and some final thoughts some pros and cons just me rambling some more so stay tuned okay so we are back this is today it's probably like four or five days I don't remember since I shot or started shooting the first video which I will link down on them in the box down there so if you want to take a look at that you can it's just the build and initial setup and leveling and all that stuff so this video we're going to talk about printing and a little bit of calibration and some issues that I had and I'm going to show you a bunch of prints that I did and some time lapse things and stuff so anyway here we go first I am gonna say any of these models that I'm gonna show you I sliced using simplify 3d and a profile that I created it's a very you know the settings are kind of very generic they're point zero zero point two millimeter layer height five top and bottom layers three outlines 10 percent infill and I ran them all at 100 millimeters per second they're here there are a couple of variables on some of the models just because of what they are and what I was trying to do so I will point those out as I get to those models okay before I start with the prints I want to talk about what I have done to the printer so far as far as modifications ago so in the first video I did mention that I put Capricorn XS I'm sorry TL tube which is the light blue one in the printer in replacement of the original stock Bowden tube that goes here it was also a little bit shorter so about nearing the end of the printing process I thought hey just for giggles let me try XS so I swapped out XS and I actually made it the original length again and I feel like it actually did make a difference but I made some other changes too so I'll talk about those as I get there but the first thing I did change kind of right off the bat is when I started doing or like my very very first prints I did notice there was a lot of salmon skin not a lot but there was a reasonable amount of salmon skin too much for me to find acceptable so I happen to have have stash of TL smoothers so I popped them in so it's super super easy and if you're not gonna do any real modifications to this printer at all I would recommend it because it did make a difference and they're super easy to put in you take the acrylic top off right here and then all you do is the board everything is really really accessible they did a really nice job as far as the layout goes inside so everything is super accessible they're really easy just to you know unplug the stepper motor cable plug the TL smoother in and go so it took me all of like three minutes so if you're not going to do any other changes that's one thing I would recommend and you can get you know 3 TL smoothers on Amazon for like 12 bucks so I would recommend that anyway let's get to the prints so first one I actually have a camera right here too so I'm gonna do some close-ups my holding things down here so the first thing I did was an X Y Z cube and I will show you the time-lapse real quick so here take a look and here's the cute so you can see it actually did come out pretty nice and there is my cat if you can hear them that's terrier so it does look good so then from there I went on to a bench II because what's the calibration without Benji so the difference between this is one of the models that was different so I printed this at 60 millimeters per second because I was I was trying something and I'll show you in a second but this came out pretty good actually I was pretty surprised surface quality is good it has a few little zits here and there but it always does so the only thing that I was a little disappointed by is it didn't really do a great job with this overhang in here and on all of them so you can see in the back porthole is that what they call it a porthole you can see that you know it was a little sketchy so I decided hey but the bottom looks really good and you can see that I wrote 60 on there and I'll tell you what so I decided to do one at 120 they're almost identical and to be honest the the overhanging structure actually came out a little bit better on the faster one so there you go then I decided hey I need to do my favorite calibration model there's no time-lapse of this don't be sad the Calla cat I love this guy but you can see again surface quality is really good the overall it came out really good so so far we're doing all right then I decided to do torture tests so I just went on Thingiverse and I found a random torture test that I thought looked pretty evil so I grabbed it sliced it up and here's the time-lapse and here's the print now you can see right away the time lapse didn't quite catch the top of it at the very top but you can see right away lots of stringing and now this stringing is more than likely just the heat setting that I didn't really bother to super adjust but I'm not sure again if all of this kind of crappiness in here is more related to the heat setting that's gonna take a little bit more trial and error to find out in general again surface quality was good Bridget was okay so if you can kind of see in here you know it did okay in the short runs but not really great on the longer ones at all and the surface quality kind of suffered a little bit on this one although the lines came out really good and the numbers on the overhanging test came out good the top surface quality here isn't as good as it should be so it came out okay the other thing was the tolerance options here it's probably easy to shoot it from the bottom so it's 0.2 0.3 0.4 and 0.5 so the 0.5 is the only one that actually popped out and it actually fell out where the 0.4 I can kind of wiggle it just a tiny bit the rest of them are fused in there so calibration probably but we'll see the other thing was the bridging here was pretty good but the overhang it didn't do a super job so that's kind of when I discovered that the part cooling was gonna be an issue and I'll show you and a couple more prints how I fix that or at least better do the situation okay moving on to the fun models so first model I printed was by modeler who I've been following for quite a bit of time now he's known as Eastman 3ds name's David Osman and he's just a fantastic modeler I follow him and I support him on patreon and I will actually put a link to his patreon page below and this is a model that I use all the time for calibration for things like that so when I get a printer that I feel like mechanically it's calibrated perfectly and then I think I have my slicing profile perfect then I go for the Captain America so let's watch the time lapse and then I'll show you closer okay so you can see this came out really nice there's a couple of things in the slicing profile I think that you know the edges in the corner here wasn't hitting quite right but in general I was very happy with the way this turned out you can see the the face let's get a close-up of his face here the space came out quite good even the overhanging on the chin looks really good so in general I was really happy with this so I thought hey I'm getting close here cap you sit there so then I moved on to another one of David's models this is one of his newer ones this is Wonder Woman and I have these printed all over the place I've got a bigger one behind me next to a cap but you can't see him because I'm blocking it so let's watch the time lapse for Wonder Woman and I'll show you what happened here you can see that different model how this one came out pretty rough so there's the surfaces aren't super smooth overhangs did not happen well and then on this model particularly I used supports just under her chin because this one requires them under her chin and it didn't come off super clean I couldn't really get the support off right here and then if you look under her chin her boobs are in the way there we go if you look under her chin you can see that the quality you know of that surface there it's just not really good so look there's Thai again oh hi baby he's back he's this he needs to sit on me all the time he sits on me while I'm working all day so here's Wonder Woman and let's move on well I move on with the cat all right I'm gonna keep talking to these people is that okay all right so then I moved on to a slightly bigger and a more detailed model I guess these this one and the next two are actually by another model or who I absolutely love I also support on patreon he his name is a veteran Maddy Novick probably you know him as waxer so oh hi okay tie everyone says hi here they are okay bye so this is one of his newer models this is the from the work and I'm gonna show you the time lapse and then we'll look at them up close okay so as you can see looking at him the quality of this is not even close to where it should be so again I've printed this model several times on other machines and it comes out much much better so this is one I determined that the part cooling was absolutely an issue and I think this model I wrote it down hold on yep this is the last model that I used just using the standard TL tube and the original part cooling duct so but you can see it's really rough on the horns here and then there was a lot of sagging in here so you can I can show you that better all in here you can see all the sagging down here so and even all through here so and that his nose ring you can really really make out as a nose ring so again I've printed this model a bunch of times so I know what it looks like when it's printed on a you know buta the calibrated machine so that was my elbow so then I thought okay I'm done I need to make a couple changes so that's when I switched back well I switched to this version of the Capricorn XS tube and I went back to your original link because I thought I don't know maybe the weight holding it down a little bit could have had something to do with it but the part cooling duct in the stock model it doesn't come down quite low enough so it's blowing more on the bottom of the block and the nozzle that it is on the part so somebody in one of the Facebook groups for the predator that I'm in actually posted a slightly modified stock version of the part cooler so I printed that out in polycarbonate on a raptor only took a couple hours and installed it now another model from Westar that you'll see this made a giant difference so let's watch the time-lapse it's cat woman from Westar and here she is now this is the only model I actually post-processed because it's two parts so I glued them together just so it was easier to show you and right off the bat you can see the difference in the surface quality it is much much better the details are so much nicer this whole area here I had all supports because she's printed tilted like this so I wanted to support that really well so there was all supports through here there's not one marking for supports anywhere on here and overall it came out great it's really just to touch it it's very very smooth even though even though I only use 0.2 Lin height so I was really happy with the way this came out I decided to print big then I decided to print fast and I decided to print in vase mode so you can see how it came out and how I probably went a little overboard on the speed so I'll share the time-lapse okay so here is the rocket let's look at it up close so I feel like I ran this a little too fast I ran this at a hundred and sixty millimeters a second so it didn't why survive it so it was just too fast and either too hot or not hot enough but it just it didn't adhere once it hit this point everything up here is kind of a wreck but hey I learned something don't go too crazy so there's all the prints let's talk about the printer and the pros and the cons and things that I would do let's talk about the pros I have a list right there that I'm going to be looking at so yeah anyway so let's talk about the pros the construction on this machine is outstanding I really think they did a fantastic job the way they laid everything out and what I'll do is I'll take a picture of the inside and I'll insert it here and you can see how nice everything looks the they organized everything in the wiring is fantastic everything is good so they did a great job with that the construction itself is super sturdy it's easy to make adjustments so like a I know I showed in the first video how to adjust the belt tension things like that it's really easy it's not super super easy to change the fan duct that was a little challenging it'd probably been a lot easier if I took the whole affector and hot off but I don't want to take it out apart I just wanted to change the duct so there's that but in general the build the quality is outstanding the ultra bass I've never used ultra base before I am very much mirror & magicka guy for all of my beds I put mirrors on all of my machines I have them custom cut at a local shop I use magic ooh unless I'm using you know something like polycarbonate then I use glue but I was really impressed with this ultra base it does have to get up the temp so you have to let it sit it kind of levels itself out after a few minutes but the pro is it heats up really fast it only takes about a minute to get to 60 so that's nice the spare parts I talked about that in the first video they included a ton of spare parts by an extra hot end an entire hot end the I forget what else go back and look at the first video if you want to know all the spare parts but it came with a lot of spare parts oh yeah spare rods it came with a set of spare rods that was really nice yeah that's about it I mean they thought the whole design oh really well so let's get to the cons there's a 32 bit board in this guy but it doesn't have socketed drivers so it's loud and you can't do anything about that if you're gonna stay stock so to me I found that to be a problem the firmware it's not Marlin it's what as far as I understand it's chi2 firmware which is extraordinarily difficult to kind of navigate through the codes are very different than marlin and I spent hours trying to calibrate just these steps and like it just stopped responding at one point it was like nope I don't care what you say so I had to basically flash it back to stock and that was a few hours wasted so I was pretty disappointed in that I've actually had several conversations with any cubic about that and hopefully with any luck they are gonna make some changes so I personally am gonna make some changes and I'll talk about those in a minute so other than that the only changes that I've made as I said I added TL smoothers and I changed the fan duct and you saw the difference in the prints between the before and the after I was gonna print the work over again but it was a 12-hour print so I didn't feel it was necessary I'll do him again at some point the cooling in general so with the replacement duct it was much better my my preference would have been to see you know like a 50/50 nor even a 40 20 radial fan a set of them back here that would have been you know a lot better in my opinion so but hey I can always change that too it's not the end of the world the only other con and it's not really a con it's just again my preference now most of my printers I actually have tighten arrows on all of Mike reality machines I've upgraded to an authentic tight narrow and on my sx/4 which is behind the predator I upgraded it to an authentic bond Tech BMG so I would have really looked too obscene I guess I better quality tighten on here because it's not enough that tickets you know it's their own version of it it's not exactly the same and it does skip steps once in a while so personally I would probably I'm probably gonna put a BMG on this once I get into the other stuff which is going to be I'm going to swap the board out in here for an SKR 1.3 and put some TMC 2208 in here I know some other people that have done it and so that that made the difference between having a really good printer and an amazing printer so hopefully any cubic will get on board with the conversations that I've had with them and I'll keep you posted on that I guess so the only other thing I did this and so I have two other Captain America prints and this was the third one because this being my first Delta I wasn't really thinking about certain things at the end of the print like what happens to the printhead so Justin I note if you do get this printer which I recommend I may sound like I'm complaining about little things but in general like I said this is an amazing printer make sure that you set your end script to home all and to not disable the stepper motors because if you do what's gonna happen is you're the first well the first time it happened it just stayed where it was and nothing happened the second time I didn't change I apparently had a script an N script in octoprint as well so my simplified 3d script told it to home and not to disabled but then my octoprint script hit and it disabled and then the hot end came right back down while it was still hot and buried itself into caps head and it looked very much like if you've seen Starship Troopers what happens after the brain bug gets them I hope you get that because I thought it was funny so I'm gonna end this video before it gets super super long I do want to just one more time just mention I want to thank filament CA for sending me all just great filament to be the testa's printer out and be able to run a bunch of prints in different colors I really appreciate that and I'll put a link to their website in the description as well so that's about it hopefully this video is helpful to some people if it wasn't that's okay too but maybe at least it was a little bit of entertainment anyway if you like the video please give a thumbs up if you hate the video please feel free to give a thumbs down that's cool comments I love and appreciate um constructive comments or hey I love your shirt comments because it's Optimus so come on now please subscribe to the channel if you haven't and I have a lot of great video ideas that I'm working on right now I've been working with mosaic manufacturing like their pallets and the palette – and the palette – pro and I've got them both here and I'm really excited to do some videos with those I have a ton of stuff so if you want to see some new content hopefully you will stick around anyway this is Chris from vs. 3d have a great day

24 thoughts on “Anycubic Predator Review Part II: Prints, Changes, Pro's, Con's & Final Thoughts

  1. Two major cons after owning one of these for two months… 1. I'm with you on replacing the extruder- that one is crap, the teeth just chew hell out of the filament and it still slips. Replaced it with a BMG and all is beautiful now. 2. They do NOT need to send a spare hotend, they just need to build it with ONE authentic e3d v6. The clone that comes with it isn't actually a clone- it's a bad copy. It is NOT an all-metal hotend, as I discovered after I printed with nylon and it clogged the end of the Bowden tube. This hotend lets the tube go all the way through the fake "heat break" and about 6mm INTO the heat block!! Some may know, a real v6 has a heat break that keeps the Bowden tube up in the heatsink, and only filament goes into the heat block. I installed a real v6, and am now loving it… so those two things DEFINITELY need to be done, in my opinion. Oh yeah, did the TL smoothers too- big diff…
    PS- Do you by chance have a phone number for Anycubic??

  2. Great video and good information!! I’ve subscribed to your channel. The prints, zoom in’s, detail, solutions and modifications triggered me to subscribe.

    Please print something big! Like a chair, or a humanoid robot.

  3. Well …
    … i saw the second Video just 5 Hours after i ordered the Predator …
    Hmh …
    … i´m not quite sure that i would have ordered it after your second Video … 😉
    But thanks for the excellent Videos!

  4. Nice Video.

    But I do not understand why you think you couldn´t change drivers. I actually did that on my Ender 3 (also soldered A4988) and it was quite simple (exept of placing the external drivers). The A4988 is well documentated. So easy to find !EN, DIR and STEP – and actually as you said right, you should not disable steppers anyway. So trace the path of DIR and STEP on the PCB for Z1, Z2 and Z3 (labeled as X, Y and Z on the board) to the next contact going through the PCB, scrape off coating there at the back side of the PCB and solder a wire there. So altogether 6 soldering points for the 3 Z-axis'.
    Than use 3 "3D printer stepper motor drive control board / expansion board for arduino" (about 1$ at Aliexpress, f.e. and connect each of this boards to DIR and STEP signal of the controllerboard. Connect Vcc (for motors, 12/24V), Vcc for electronic (3,3/5V) and GND to the external stepper boards; on each external stepper board connect !EN permernantly to GND (as you shouln't shot off the drivers anyways). Carefurly remove the housing of the stepper connector an mount it rotated by 180° (if you want to use TMC-drivers). Adjust voltage for the TMCs.
    Actualy I demontrated the result in a short video ( sorry, german only) using the ender 3 board. Works quite well.

    Have not done it on the predator at the moment (I have other prioritary projects at the moment), but I see no reason why that would not work. You also have much more space in the housing of the predator, so it should not be a problem to place external drivers.
    Normaly e do not need a silent driver, but if you use a geared extruder and a bigger nozzle, maybe change the driver there also.

    The advantage of changing the drivers to external ones of course is you need not an other controller and another display and also you do not need to adapt firmware.

  5. I have one of these printers and I agree they are amazing and huge you mentioned a cooling duct would you be able to share this or can this be put on thingy verse many thanks and great video

  6. Bonjour merci pour cette vidéo et la précédente, je pense que tu devrais ajouter deux éléments pour les améliorer : afficher en surimpression les paramètres durant les timelapse (vitesses, infill, …) et en compléments les liens des modéles que tu imprime. merci encore à toi bonne continuation

  7. システムチェックの仕方を教えてください。説明書が読みにくいので。ドライバーとスライサーソフトウェアのインストールの仕方を教えてください。貴方の動画を翻訳で勉強しています。

  8. Thanks for this video. I just bought a Predator but it's still in the box while I'm weighing a potential move. (No sense in opening it up just to pack it back up.) I'll probably pepper you with questions once I'm ready to get it rolling.

  9. This is everything I could hope for in a review. Out-of-the-box quality, ups, downs, key modifications with results, and a couple of hints for the manufacturer. I've been looking at this printer for a while but worried about how it seems to deliver well on every point except actual print quality, which is rather important. This review gets to the heart of that and shows me the dirt, but then comes back with a couple easy mods that fix the problem, giving a clear idea of both what I'm going to get and what I can turn it into. Liked, subscribed. You could use a better camera, or maybe just better lighting, for close-ups, but this is otherwise the kind of review I'd expect from someone who's making this sort of thing his job.

    Do you know anything about the confusion between the Anycubic Predator versus Anycubic D? The new ones say Predator on them, the older ones say Anycubic on them, some vendors have been selling them interchangeably, and I've heard some doubts about the QC on the older model. Any thoughts?

  10. Hi, nice review! I own an ender 3 and want to buy a second printer. I would like something with a big enough build plate to print helmets in one go. (And other armor pieced) I am trying to decide between this anycubic delta or the CR-10 range. Do you recommend one over the other? Thanks

  11. Hi, You talked about the Chitu firmware, does it need a special slicer?
    I use Slic3r on all my other printers and i was wondering if i can still can use it with this printer.
    I read something about Chitu uses a different kind of G-code and wondered if this would be a problem using Slic3r that uses "normal" G-code. Loved both of your reviews, keep us informed please. 🙂

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